Barbershop Photography

A while ago I was asked to write a piece in Barber Evo Magazine sharing my thoughts on how the barber industry has changed. It was an obvious “yes” as it’s something I’m very passionate about and happy to share. Here is the magazine spread as well as what I had to say. Unfortunately the book is out of print, but you can still buy prints from the series.

Click here to check out the book.

At this point it almost sounds stupid to say out loud that barbershops have changed. And even if that’s a massive understatement, it’s true. Back in 2012 when I first began my “Barbershops of America” project, it looked like traditional barbering was becoming a thing of the past. Then a year or two later the explosion started. Barbering became sexy. Everyone wanted to do it. And the next thing I knew there was a barbershop on almost every street corner. The way I see it today, there are 3 different schools of new age barbers: those looking for a quick buck, those who want to be Instagram famous, and those looking to carry on the old traditions while also adding their own modern twist. Old time shops are something that couldn’t and shouldn’t be replicated. They are simple places with a way about them that naturally came to be with age. The old timers never gave any consideration to looking cool, and because of that, they just were. What you see in their shops is sort of a living thing that organically grew over 40, 50, or 60 years. Each shop has it’s own personality that’s a direct reflection of the barber and his friends/clients that have been walking through the same doors their whole life. 

I’m not a barber and I don’t believe there is a right or wrong when it comes to building a shop. If it makes you happy and you’re doing it for the right reasons, then go for it. However, I have been to over 1,000 barbershops in all 50 states of the USA.  So what I do have is a very informed personal opinion. And my opinion on the negative side is that a lot of barbershops have become very impersonal and sterile places. Some are owned by people who are not barbers and never planned on spending any time there, so the shop lacks any real identity. They could be owned by absolutely anyone. There is no defining characteristic besides some sort of aesthetic that you could easily mistake for a high end salon. Again, this is just my opinion, but people continue to patronize a barbershop because they know the barber and on at least a couple levels, they connect with the same things. The shop becomes very familiar and welcoming because you can talk about your shared interests. Walking into most barbershops these days, you would have no clue what the barbers do besides cut hair. There are no pieces of their personality hanging on the wall or glimpses into their life on the mirror. You can almost compare them to a bank in the sense that you could swap out the teller every single day and nobody would have any idea if that person had been working there for a day or 30 years. Walking into a bank is very soulless. You do your business and get the hell out, but only after the teller asks you the same question they asked every other person that has ever approached their window - “so, do you have any big plans for the weekend?” Sure, these barbershops are visually more slick than a bank, but not necessarily and more soulful.

On the positive side, there are people doing beautiful things with their shops. And I’m not strictly talking about the design. Shops that you walk in and instantly have some understanding of who the owner is.You know that his personality has oozed out of him and into the shop. “Eagle and Pig” in Costa Mesa, California comes instantly to mind. Owner Dane Hesse has done a tremendous job there. His t-shirts and stickers say things like “the one and only” for good reason. There has never been and never will be another shop like his. Dane is a 1/1 and you see that in his shop. Walking in the door you practically run right into his classic Ford pick-up truck, which is a constant work in progress. Once you make your way around the truck there is a rack of surfboards and the walls are filled with very unique pieces. All of which are a part of his personality. You know what Dane is into. He is a really smart guy, but he didn't build his shop so that you or anyone else would think it’s cool. It’s almost a clubhouse for him, his friends, and anyone else that enjoys spending time there while getting a great haircut. Of course he has a barber pole and the old chairs, but more than anything he wants you to receive top notch service. That’s tradition. Great service. Barbers aren’t a gift that their customers are lucky to have access to when they aren’t off making celebrity house calls. 

If you want me to name drop other shops, then people should look to places like Pugsly’s Barbershop / Pugsly’s Sideshow in Kingston, NY, Joe’s Barbershop in Chicago, Franklin’s Barbershop in Philly, Shane’s Barbershop in San Mateo, CA, and Mark Jason Solofa Men’s Grooming in Berkeley/Danville, CA. These are guys that get tradition and service. Crossing over from the street into their shop, you feel a tangible vibe. You can also feel the pride they have for what they do. They want you to feel welcome but you also know immediately that people walk out with a quality haircut. Their shops are well thought out. Curated but not overdone. They are the real deal. Not for everybody, which is the point. You can’t really say that there is one defining visual element to barbershops today. Because for better or worse, they are all different. The important thing is that “different” comes from the right place. It needs to come from the barber. The walls at Shane’s are covered with skateboards and music paraphernalia  because that’s where he came from and that’s what he’s into. Joe’s has been in business since 1968 when it was a one man shop that Joe Sr. opened. Sr. still cuts but Jr. took it over a while back and since expanded it to 8 chairs. Still though, you can feel the history. Right inside the front door is a pile of vhs movies, 8-track tapes, and repaired record players that Sr. has for sale. On any given day he might have a repaired bicycle for sale out front too. That’s just him. Not in a mean way, but if you don’t like their style, they don’t care. A real barbershop is a friendly place but it can’t be for everybody like the shitty sports bar that has the pennant of every NFL team hanging in the ceiling.

30 years ago would you have seen skateboards, big screen tv’s, or battle trophies hanging in a barbershop? No. That’s not the point. Times have changed and so have people. That’s how the world works. And no matter the industry, there will always be different schools of thought that don’t agree. I’m from the school that believes barbering is a humble and creative profession that would be nothing today if it weren’t for the countless years of tradition that got us here. So while having the pole, the chairs, and the proper tools are a must, it’s the other things that count. Create a shop that comes from within. Grow your business with a genuine purpose, take care of your customers, leave your ego at home, and don’t wear your fuckin’ sunglasses indoors.